A few stops in the German Moselle wine-growing valley

Germany’s National Holiday “Tag der Deutschen Einheit” is celebrated on 3rd October and commemorates the reunification of Germany in 1990. Thanks to this, I had a long weekend off from work and was able to tick off one more destination from my wish list of places to visit in Germany. I’ve been wanting to visit some towns in the Moselle Valley wine-growing region for a long time.

The Moselle river runs 195km through Germany, from Trier to Koblenz. Last month I visited Bernkastel-Kues and Traben-Trarbach (50 and 74 km downriver from Trier).

The Old Town of Bernkastel-Kues

Despite being in Bernkastel on a rather wet day, I really enjoyed the half-timbered houses decorated with flowers in the old town and I loved looking up to the green rows of vines on the hillsides and to Burg Landshut castle on the hilltop.

Bernkastel-Kues and its hilly green vineyards
Bernkastel-Kues and its hilly green vineyards
Burg Landshut, perched up above Bernkastel-Kues
Burg Landshut, perched up above Bernkastel-Kues
Half-timbered houses in Bernkastel Kues
Half-timbered houses in Bernkastel Kues
Colourful and half-timbered houses in Bernkastel Kues
Colourful and half-timbered houses in Bernkastel Kues

The vineyards in Bernkastel-Kues are among the oldest in Germany. They are famous for fine Riesling wines. In October you have the opportunity of finding lots of “Federweisser” young wine throughout Germany, especially in wine regions. Most restaurants in Berkastel-Kues and Traben-Trarbach sold the classical combo, a glass of Federweisser with a slice of Zwiebelkuchen (savoury onion cake).

Nice sign outside of a B&B
Nice sign outside of a B&B
Swans on the Moselle river in Wehlen (4 km from Bernkastel-Kues), on a calm misty morning
Swans on the Moselle river in Wehlen (4 km from Bernkastel-Kues), on a calm misty morning
Wehlen (4 km from Bernkastel-Kues), on a misty morning, by the Moselle river
Wehlen (4 km from Bernkastel-Kues), on a misty morning, by the Moselle river

Traben-Trarbach

The town of Traben-Trarbach is also nested among vineyards. To me it was less picturesque than Bernkastel-Kues, but it has some nice Art Nouveau villas and many hiking trails. From the Moselle riverbank on the Traben side you have a wonderful view up to the ruins of the Grevenburg medieval castle built in 1350.

Trarbach by the Moselle river
Trarbach by the Moselle river
Trarbach riverbank
Trarbach riverbank
Looking down onto Traben-Trarbach
Looking down onto Traben-Trarbach
Looking up at Grevenburg Castle from the riverbank
Looking up at Grevenburg Castle ruins from the Moselle riverbank
Vineyard in Traben-Trarbach
Vineyard in Traben-Trarbach
Vines in the Traben-Trarbach wine-growing region
Vines in the Traben-Trarbach wine-growing region

What about the ice cream?!

While visiting one of the top wine regions in France last Summer, I really hoped to find some wine sorbet or at least some pomace-based sorbet/ice cream. But my wish was not fulfilled! I was therefore all the more happy to come across ice cream shops in the Moselle Valley that make grape and wine ice cream flavours! 🙂

1- Marcello’s Eiseck, Robert Schumanstr. 67, D-Kröv

Marcello’s Eiseck is a family-run ice cream café in Kröv, 6.5 km away from Traben-Trarbach. It had good online ratings, so we stopped there on our way from Bernkastel-Kues to Traben-Trarbach. They make their ice cream with natural fresh ingredients from the region, without using chemical additives.

Family-run Marcello's Eiseck - since 1996 in Kröv
Family-run Marcello’s Eiseck – since 1996 in Kröv

Two flavours in particular caught my eye: mosella (grape) and Weinbergpfirsisch (Saturn peach). Some of these peaches grow in vineyard areas of the Moselle valley. Both flavours were good, but I liked the saturn peach ice cream best. It had a wonderful intense peach flavour!

Some of the ice cream flavours on offer at Marcello's Eiseck in Kröv
Some of the ice cream flavours on offer at Marcello’s Eiseck in Kröv
The 2 flavours that caught my attention: mosella grape ice cream and saturn peach ice cream
The 2 flavours that caught my attention: mosella grape ice cream and saturn peach ice cream

Marcello’s Eiseck website: www.marcellos-eiseck.de

2 –  Pâtisserie und Eiscafé Blume & Kalkreuth, Aacherstr. 1, D-56841 Traben-Trarbach

This patisserie and ice cream shop is beautifully located directly on the Moselle river bank in Traben-Trabach. I had not intended to eat more ice cream that day, but the weather was good and their ice cream counter was attractive!

Ice cream counter at Eiscafe Blume & Kalkreuth
Ice cream counter at Eiscafe Blume & Kalkreuth

Beside flavours such as passionfruit, vanilla, banana, mango, etc., they had a selection of three different wine ice creams: white wine, red wine and Federweisser ice cream (the young wine I mentioned higher up). I was happy to try a scoop of red wine and Federweisser ice cream! They were cool to try but they will not become all-time favourites of mine! I tried various other flavours of my friends which were very good: tonka bean, mango, …

Ice cream on offer at Eiscafe Blume & Kalkreuth
Ice cream on offer at Eiscafe Blume & Kalkreuth
My two scoops of wine ice cream from Eiscafe Blume & Kalkreuth
My two scoops of wine ice cream from Eiscafe Blume & Kalkreuth

Inside their shop they had many pretty-looking pâtisseries. I am only realising now that Blume & Kalkreuth patisserie and ice cream shop is very recent: they opened in August 2017! Make sure to take a look if you’re around Traben-Trarbach!

Blume & Kalkreuth website: blume-kalkreuth.de
Facebook: facebook.com/pg/blume.kalkreuth

Useful links

Bernkastel-Kues Tourist Centre website: www.bernkastel.de

Traben-Trarbach Tourist Information website: www.traben-trarbach.de

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2 Comments Add yours

  1. Toller Artikel. Vielen Dank.

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